![]() IT is easy to do correctly, but like every easy job, I can sometimes screw it up. I can see other breaks in the finish and moisture entering there may cause more cracks.Įxperiment with the glue on other wood, even test it on the inside of the forearm. after a day give the whole forend a light coating of lin-speed oil. Don't drench the crack, just trace it with a thin line. this stuff sticks almost instantaneously and doesn't come off (including fingers). it is used on gitars and instruments that vibrate causing cacks.ĬAREFUL. They make "THIN CA" glue it is thinner and penetrates small cracks. It is Fast Drying so you will only get one shot at doing it correctly. Use a high-quality wood glue to glue it in its place. In precision model building it is used and is very strong. Make sure the cracked or broken piece is in the correct position. I'd fix from the front keeping the rear integrity and ading to the present strength. the crack looks like a wood drying and warp crack to me. I have been using that method for 30 years and have never had a joint failure.If the crack does NOT go thru, then the back side is your strength. You will be pleasantly surprised at the results. It does not seem to noticeably affect the strength of the epoxy.īefore you tackle a repair, mix up a few small batches to get the hang of tinting it. I start with basic brown then add a little black if I need to darken it up. Download stock pictures of Crack wall repair on Depositphotos Photo stock for commercial use - millions of high-quality, royalty-free photos & images. I tint the mixed epoxy with a drop of Testor’s enamel hobby paint (does not take much). ![]() After wiping off the excess epoxy I let it set up for the 30-45 minutes then do the razor blade scrape (if necessary) and then let it set for a full 24 hour cure. I open the crack as far as possible and give the epoxy a chance to run down inside then close and clamp the crack. Others take longer to set but I’ve been concerned about them running out of the crack and onto the finish. Some will set in 5 minutes, which to me sounds like they won’t spread into the very fine splintered area withing the cracks in the wood. I like the idea of using epoxy but have been concerned about which one to use. I wish I had taken a before and after picture but, below is the after on my 1897 repair. After many shots, I see no sign of the cracks opening up. Once dry, I just scrape flush with a razor blade and touch up with a little gun stock oil. Major cracks are best repaired by pinning. You may not wish to continue down this path. Apply thin crazy glue into the crack until it will not take any more than wrap surgical tubing around the grip area until the crack is closed up. The beauty of Gorilla glue is that it expands as it cures, forcing the glue into the joint and pores of the wood. If the crack wont seal (e.g., as on a stock or blowstick), stop. First degrease the stock inletting thoroughly with acetone to remove as much oil as possible then wedge the crack open a TINY bit with a tapered dowel in the stock bolt hole. Wipe off as mush access glue as you can after the crack is closed and before it cures. Open the crack as wide as possible and inject the Gorilla glue, clamp, and let dry overnight. The key to using Gorilla Glue is to spritz the crack with water before and after applying the glue. I have repaired a couple of buttstocks with tangs cracks on each sides without using pins or screws and each one was a practically invisible repair afterwards. I would like to recommend using Gorilla Glue for repairing cracks in stocks and forends.
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